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20 Jan 2012

Old Delhi

Where to begin. This place is crazy. There are too many people with a different view of personal space from me and from the people of east Asia.  I'll just have to learn to push and shove.  
My day started with a big breakfast of masala dosa, a huge stuffed pancake with curry dips and a cup of hot sweet tea.  I then made it to the tube station I arrived at last night and bought a one day ticket, unlimited travel for about £2.  The tube is ultramodern, quick clean and sleek once you get into it.   You can make calls on your mobile and even plug in your laptop.  Imagine that on London transports.  Above ground it's almost invisible amongst the broken pavements, stray dogs, tuk tuks and people. I took it to Chandi Chowk the heart of the old city where the red fort and the Jama Masjid  are. As an obedient tourist I did the fort which was more interesting from the outside. The mosque was shut for Friday prayers but looked spectacular and I shall be going back tomorrow to  try and get in. The lanes and alleys surrounding it contain everything, jewellery shops, sari shops and incense shops. What else do people need?
It's cold though. A lot colder than I thought it would be. I bought a wooly hat from a man by the train station and might survive with what I've brought with me.  An overnight camel safari will be a challenge unless they provide warm things for the nights.  I have become used to the soft tropical warmth and have forgotten what being cold is like.  The locals wander about wrapped in blankets and scarves, giving the streets the air of a rather large and permanent refugee camp.  I think it might actually be that for some of the people who look like they have no home to go to.
Despite the brokenness of everything I like it more than New Delhi.  Edwin Lutyens designed New Delhi and at the same time must have invented the dual carriageway and the roundabout as that's what this part of town is.  I endured a confusing ride in a tuk tuk from a tube station to Humayan's tomb. The driver seemed to enjoy whizzing round in circles but I didn't .  The tomb was beautiful and set in a large and peaceful ornamental garden.  It was a contrast to the morning's sights.

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